Good luck.I agree with everything you said EXCEPT for what you said about advance auto. Pouring money into the reservoir is not a solution. If you want a car to run right and keep running, fix the cause, not the symptom. They suck, and the wty is rarely honored. BTW, Beware Advance Auto Parts/wearever pads. If your rotors are not replaced or turned, no pad will deliver adequate life and performance, and if a caliper is stuck, you will wear out one side very quickly. Here again, fixing the whole problem is key. The warranty is a clue, but not the final indicator of quality. There are no flux capacitors involved, and the blessing of the high OEM priest will not yield more HP, MPG, or longevity.īrake pads still follow the oldschool model: you get what you pay for (mostly). Virtually all filters are the same, provided they are a decent brand. Also the manufacturing of these often follows suit with the oil business as previously mentioned, even if it has an automakers brand on it. The PCV valve is a very simple apparatus. If you have to replace the PCV every 5k, whether it's a cheap chinese part or OEM made from whalebone and platinum, you have an oil blowby problem or bad valve stem seals. All OEMs farm production out to someone, and that someone can easily sell the same product to autozone with a different label. Keep in mind, all oil comes out of the ground from the same planet, and there are only so many refineries. The dealer is certain to sell you the right stuff (as long as their parts guy isn't an idiot), but if you take a few minutes to read and do your homework, the aftermarket can usually provide the correct fluid and parts too, and for less $. Use ZF spec fluid for auto transmissions, honda-compatible power steering fluid, etc. That does not mean it has to come from the dealer. I have serviced dozens of hondas, and here is what I have learned:Īlways use fluid that meets the OEM spec. Wow, there's a lot of misinformation on this thread. I also say Honda coolant because the blue **** tested out better vs PEAK PS fluid - OEM $4 autozone Honda/Acura fluid $3, rack gets *** raped PCV valves - OEM $10 Autozone $3 but you have to change it every 5k miles There are just some things you shouldnt get at autozone, over the dealership and thats Also, if you are currently using Prestone Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant in your car's cooling system, and you add a conventional antifreeze/coolant, you will lose the extended protection.Quote, originally posted by rSol93 »I doubt it matters is you use the stuff from the dealership, but make sure you use PS fluid that says "For Hondas". If you decide to replace your existing antifreeze/coolant with Prestone? Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant, make sure you completely drain and flush the cooling system first in order to gain the full benefits of the longer-lasting formula. Prestone? Extended Life has been proven in the laboratory to be compatible with all new extended life formulas at concentrations typically used in all newer vehicles coming off the production line today. This patented formula has a concentrated blend of premium, long-lasting inhibitors for extended performance, protecting against temperature extremes and the ravages of rust and corrosion for 5 years or 150,000 miles. Prestone? Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant is recommended and formulated for use in all cars and light-duty trucks with aluminum radiators. Prestone? Extended Life 5/150 Antifreeze/Coolant Looks like Volvo has approved the following: I made it home in 100 degree wx instead of having to walk for miles to the nearest gas station.Įvans sounds like a sweet deal but, it sounds like it has its limitations in a real world applcation.Īman Bro! Tap water in many parts of the country contains too many hard water deposits! I had to do this quite a few times to get home but, it worked. Filled up my jug and dumped creek water into the car. I headed into the woods and found a creek that ran parallel to the road. I had a gallon of water in the truck so I dumped it all in (at this point I couldnt tell where all the water had left, I only knew that it wasnt in the car anymore) I drove few more mile and the coolant level light was back on. When I had my old car, I was on my way home from the Bend, OR area when I had a hose under the intake manifold split lengthwise about an inch long. If Evans is waterless does that mean if you are in a pinch you need to look for someplace that carries Evans instead of just buying what ever you can find at the overly priced gas station in the middle of no where? Can you add water if you are loosing coolant?
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